Ninoshima Island: Swapping tourism for history

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Our third day in Hiroshima, we wanted to try and “opt outside” since we had seen the top attractions for the area. The castle, Peace Monument and Mijimaya Island did not disappoint. Paired with the night life Hiroshima really surprised me. Our plan was to head to a hike a few hours away, but with no car we formed another plan. After seeing how many islands there really were around us we thought hey, I am SURE we can venture to another one. This led to a quick google search where we set our eyes on Ninoshima. Reading other personal accounts I knew it was not a tourist destination, but easily accessible.

Ninoshima Island: Swapping tourism for history

History Lesson

After learning more details of the tragedy that Hiroshima faced at the Hiroshima Peace Museum, we did not realize that our whole trip would be part of that story, especially this day. After the atomic bomb, an emergency hospital was set up on the Island of Ninoshima to help with massive amount of people who needed medical attention. When tragedy hit this area, 10,000 people were sent here to live out there last days or get additional help. Throughout the years bodies have been found, the most recent being in 2004.

What we envisioned

Fully knowing this was not an island catered to us, we still thought based on the marvels of the internet, there would be a bike rental at the port. We would rent bikes, cycle around the island, hopefully eat at a local place that was open and leave feeling like we had visited the gem of Japan! Have you every had the perfect day of adventuring in your head only to completely be turned upside down? I remember thinking I would be surprised by how great the day would surely go. When really you will leave feeling a bit disheartened but eager to never stop exploring and learning. History really is all around you in Japan.

The reality

Arriving to the port, you will see it has a very “sleepy town” vibe. A few people walking around, a closed down cafe and an air conditioned haven ferry port station. With no bike rental shop insight, we headed along the island away from the infamous mountain of Aki-no-Kofuji (“Little Fuji”). Tattered houses that had seen some wear and tear follow us along the beautiful coast. The heat was almost unbearable as we came upon a beach that we thought would be immaculate and stunning. I like to call this “treasure beach” because of all the miscellaneous things you can collect….Shells, broken plates and shoes among them.

Next, with humidity and the desire to make the best of our day we decided to jump into the refreshing water. Regardless of what island we were on, the view could not be beat. The Hiroshima Bay has many little islands and the natural beauty is remarkable!

Afterward, with the help of a map, we made our way to the Ninoshimarinkai Park through a beautiful cemetary, natural bamboo forest and got quite a workout. What met us at the bottom was a waterslide “park” and a port with some ships docked. We slowly made our way back to the small main town, stopping in a grocery store and walking past the few local businesses they had. The day had come to an end and we were glad we went!

What I recommend

If you have an extra day in Hiroshima, rent a bike, hop in a ferry and go explore an island! Learn, talk to locals and enjoy. If you go to Ninoshima, rent a bike prior to boarding the ferry, bring snacks/lunch and climb Aki-no-Kofuji. We were pretty tired from Mt. Fuji but it looked like a beautiful view from the top!

I feel thankful everyday I am able to live in the beautiful country of Japan. The people, history and traditions are among what makes it great. This day we got a glimpse of the repercussions of war, chemical weapons and the aftermath of tragedies. It was something a museum, peace memorial or park could never completely teach. Besides being confused as to maybe why we were there, the people were curious about our story, and us theirs.

Have you ever had a travel day go unplanned but went with it anyway? Would love to hear your stories!

Til next time,

Katherine

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